The Wirecutter Show
The New York Times
The Beginner’s Guide To Retinol Products
In this episode of The Wirecutter Show, the hosts explore the world of retinol, a powerhouse anti-aging ingredient derived from vitamin A that is widely recommended by dermatologists for its ability to boost collagen, reduce fine lines, and improve skin texture. Joining the show are board-certified dermatologist Dr. Nikil Dhingra and Wirecutter editor Rory Evans to help listeners navigate the complexities of incorporating these products into a routine. The discussion clarifies the difference between prescription-strength retinoids and over-the-counter options, noting that while prescription versions are the gold standard for concerns like acne, over-the-counter alternatives are effective for many seeking preventative skin health. Experts emphasize starting with a low concentration and using the "sandwich method" of moisturizing to minimize irritation. The conversation also highlights specific product recommendations from Wirecutter’s testing, covering a variety of budgets and skin types—including sensitive and dry skin—and offers practical advice on how to build tolerance over time. Ultimately, the episode underscores that consistency and sun protection remain the most critical components of any effective skincare regimen.
Updated Jul 1, 2026
About This Episode
A retinoid is one of the best, scientifically-backed products you can use to keep your skin looking youthful. These vitamin A derivatives are among the very few skin-care products that can boost collagen, minimizing the appearance of pores and fine lines.
In this episode, we’re bringing on two experts to help you determine the type of retinol product that’s best for you. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Nikhil Dhingra, of Spring Street Dermatology, explains how retinoids work and how to decide between using over-the-counter (OTC) and prescription-strength products. Wirecutter editor Rory Evans shares the top OTC products from Wirecutter’s extensive testing.
This episode covers:
- What retinoids can do for your skin: Helping to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. They can also help with hyperpigmentation, protect the skin against sun damage, and thicken skin that’s starting to thin with age.
- The difference between prescription-strength and OTC retinoids: Prescription-strength retinoids are generally more powerful and can also be more irritating to the skin. Some, such as tretinoin, are already in their active form, retinoic acid, while others bind directly to retinoid receptors in the skin. OTC retinol products, by contrast, are generally less potent and often less irritating because they must be converted by the skin into active retinoic acid before exerting their effects.
- The difference between OTC ingredients: Although OTC products are often referred to as retinols, they feature a range of active ingredients. Retinal (short for retinaldehyde), requires one conversion step to become retinoic acid. Retinol needs two conversion steps, while retinyl palmitate requires three. Adapalene doesn't convert to retinoic acid and interacts differently with skin to limit oil production and minimize inflammation (which is why it’s mostly used in acne treatment).
- Tips for using retinol products: Dr. Dhingra recommends starting with a pea-sized amount only a few times a week. To reduce irritation, you can also use the sandwich method—apply moisturizer, layer your retinol product, and top it with moisturizer again to safely dilute the product.
- OTC retinol products, by skin type: Rory walks us through the top OTC products from Wirecutter’s extensive testing.
Products we recommend:
- Best for mature skin: SkinMedica Retinol Complex 1.0
- Best for adjustable potency: Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3
- Best for sensitive skin: Youth To The People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum
Best for dry skin: LilyAna Naturals Retinol Cream - Best adapalene for acne: La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1%
- Best value: Trader Joe’s Retinol Night Serum
- Best drugstore retinol: L’Oréal Paris Revitalift 0.3% Pure Retinol
- Rory loves: Wander Sports Sun Visor
Additional reading:
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